My Trip to the Old Country


By Jacqueline Papazian Kazarian,
San Francisco, US


In 1983 I traveled to Soviet Armenia representing the William Saroyan Family and became part of a small and mighty group lead by Aram Arax. It was the First Saroyan Pilgrimage to Armenia following the delivery of William Saroyan's ashes earlier.

The Soviet Union was another world, a world I met with fear.

I knew only what I had read in the press and what my Uncle Bill had told us. He visited Soviet Armenia in 1934 and again in 1978 a few years before his death in 1981. He loved the Motherland and in 1934 wrote prophetically about Armenia and its once again becoming an independent nation. The short story was published in the book that brought him fame, The Daring Young Man on the Flying Trapeze. His words about historic Armenia have been quoted for decades. His people reverence him to this day. Paul Kalinian in his award-winning documentary shows scenes both moving and powerful of that visit.

I was thankful to be a part of that first pilgrimage to Soviet Armenia. I have not heard of any other pilgrimages. Perhaps one day, I will take a group on such a journey.

Soviet Armenia was not the Armenia knew. I knew about the OLD COUNTRY. I knew about Bitlis and Kharpert, Turkish Armenia. As a child I heard tragic stories of death, pain and loss. I heard of the brutality of the barbaric Turks. I knew first hand how they thrived on the death and destruction of the Armenian people. I had heard it all my life from my family. It was the first Genocide.

In September 1995 I heard about a trip to Turkish Armenia, The Old Country. I swiftly made arrangements and in a week was off to Eastern Anatolia with Armen Aroyan and nine other travelers. This calm, mild tempered gentleman was our seasoned guide with his Turkish associate, and friend, Jemal.

This experience, to this day, captures my mind and heart. It is one thing to visit a land with history and beauty; it is another to visit a place that has the footprints and blood of your family.

There were ten of us on this trip from different parts of the United States We were each going to find our roots, the places where our families had lived and some died. Armen planned our travel so that each of us would visit his familyıs village, community or site.

We had a bus that accommodated us. Jemal stayed with us until Antep. He protected us and made sure we were not detained. He knew the country and every turn in the road. Our journey, some 2900 miles was comfortable, scenic and direct. We saw it all and visited each place that was part of our past. Armen had each of us tell our story when we arrived at our village or town. It was the most emotional, consistently moving experience I have ever had. I did say that before but I say it again because it is important, every person on that trip bonded as we re-lived the experiences shared. I remember sitting in the bus looking out the window with tears streaming down my face.

Each person's story could be the script for a powerful movie. The mountains, the rugged land, the difficulties the people of that time endured, it was a miracle that any survived. What a contrast to the comfort of our bus! I imagined the bitter cold, the dirty tattered clothes and the little food.

My father not yet five became part of a caravan. He worked during the day to make money for passage for himself and his mother. They were the only survivors in his family.

The Old Country was a real place, a place that still exists. The name Armenia still haunts the world with the dead bodies of millions of Armenians who knew Christ and were not ashamed to say so.

How can this Truth, be ignored? These pages of history must be honored. Who can say it didn't happen and get away with it? The 21st Century must be that moment in time when we Armenians make a loud, forceful plea. Hear us, we will not be silenced!

Armen Aroyan has taken at least twenty tours to this land. Anyone who wants to know where the heart of Armenia is, truly, it is in the Highlands of Historic Armenia.

Bravo, Armen, keep enlightening those who wish to catch a glimpse of another world, the real Armenia in the Old Country.