The group at the tenth century Cathedral of Ani (a few hundred feet away from the Republic of Armenia)
Within the ruins of the Surp Garabed Monastery of Mush (following a church service led by Archdeacon Charles Hardy)
By Archdeacon Charles (Kherdian) Hardy
Racine, Wisconsin
"There comes to each a time of life
When all our hopes have gone at last,
The poor soul longs and strives no more
And dwells alone upon the past;
Then when my breaking heart unstrung
Shall sing to hope a last goodnight,
I'll sleep in my Cilicia,
The land where first I saw the light."
(From the anthem, "Cilicia," by Nahabed Rusinian)
Istanbul, once a thriving center of Armenian culture, is where we began our May 2002 ancestral journey. We were a group of nineteen North American-Armenians ready to embark on a pilgrimage to Historic Armenia and Cilicia. Among the members of our group were Zohrab and Armenouhi Andonian, Lou Aronian, George and Mary Atashkarian, Walter Barsamian, Hilda and Arad Basmajian, Robert Deranian, Dorothy Deranian Thompson, Yeretsgin Hayganoush Kaloustian, Carl Mahakian, Sarkis Manoukian, Pasquale and Sally Martirani, all of whom were from California. Joining us were Stephanie Martirani and Jennifer Cramsey (Virginia), and Hrair "Hawk" Khatcherian (Canada). Our indefatigable group leader was Armen Aroyan from Monrovia, California. He has taken numerous groups over the past ten years to Historic Armenia and Cilicia. His vast knowledge of the places we visited and his proficiency in the Turkish language enabled us to fulfill our life dreams.
Before leaving for the interior of present-day Turkey, there were several places we visited in Istanbul, a city which still has a large Armenian population. Among the sites were the Armenian Patriarchate of Istanbul (which is being renovated) and the beautiful Surp Krikor Lusavorich (St. Gregory the Illuminator) Church in the Galata district. The latter contains the tomb of one of the most illustrious Armenian patriarchs of Constantinople, Patriarch Hovhannes Golod, who served from 1715-1742. Many ecclesiastical and educational reforms were instituted during his reign.
One of the most impressive institutions on our tour was the Surp Prgich Hospital which serves the needs of sick and elderly Armenians. In the middle of this immaculate complex of old and new buildings is a beautiful park full of trees and flowers. We visited with several residents while touring the facilities.
The Armenian Cemetery at Uskudar was also very impressive. Here rest many prominent Armenians, among them members of the royal architect Balian family and the tombs of the beloved poets Bedros Tourian and Matteos Zarifian.
In August of 1896, an event occurred in Istanbul to draw world attention to the treatment of Armenians in the Ottoman Empire. It was the seizure of the Ottoman Bank by a group of fedayees. This event has been perpetuated in history books and in song. While judged by some historians as a tragic mistake which resulted in the deaths of thousands of Armenians, others view it as a desperate effort to alleviate the intolerable conditions of the Armenians living under Ottoman rule. The building still functions as a bank, renamed the Turkiye Cumhuriyet Merkez Bankasi.
Our trip to the interior began with our flight from Istanbul to Adana. There we visited the Sihun (Seyhan) River with its ancient Roman bridge to pay homage to those of our compatriots who lost their lives in the Massacre of Adana in April of 1909. We were in the land of Cilicia where once existed a great Armenian kingdom during the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. Its capital, Sis (renamed Kozan), became the seat of the Catholicate of Cilicia in 1293 A.D. After the kingdom was destroyed by the Mameluks of Egypt in 1375, Sis continued to be the seat. By 1921, the majority of Armenians had evacuated from Cilicia followed by the Catholicos, Sahag II. The Catholicos had no permanent residence until 1929. In that year, the Cilician See was established at Antelias, Lebanon, where it is located today.
Upon our arrival at Sis, we saw the breathtaking view of its fortress walls. As we stood in the ruins of its castle, we sang the beloved anthem "Giligia," bringing to mind the memories of our parents and grandparents. "When the doors of hope are opened, and winter has fled our land, I wish to see my Cilicia."
As we continued our pilgrimage through Cilicia, we visited Hajin (renamed Saimbeyli) and its ruins. This once populous Armenian city was the site of heroic battles of self-defense in 1920.
Leaving Hajin, we traveled toward Gesaria (Kayseri). It was a Sunday morning when we visited the Surp Krikor Lusavorich Church. St. Gregory the Illuminator was ordained a bishop in this city, and the catholicoi were consecrated here until 373 A.D.. We had a worship service in its beautiful historic sanctuary.
That very same day, we traveled to other towns and villages of Gesaria. At Evereg (renamed Develi) we visited the Surp Toros Church, now a mosque. In its interior is a fresco of the Virgin Mary and Christ-child recently discovered while the building was undergoing renovation. The Imam (Moslem cleric) showed us the painting which is covered with a large rectangular wooden board. On the exterior walls of the church are some huge stones with carved Armenian letters. What was once an Armenian dwelling still stands across from the church. On its metal doors are engraved the Armenian letters, "Men" and "Veh," and the year 1905.
We drove from Evereg to the once Armenian village of Jujun. This small village of a few hundred people still contains relics of the Armenian presence. Recycled khachkars (stones engraved with crosses) were found on the exterior wall of one of the homes. The old villagers, all Turks, still remember the last Armenians who lived there.
A short distance from Jujun is the town of Tomarza which today has a population of 11,200. This once thriving Armenian town had a huge monastery named Surp Asdvadzadzin (Holy Mother of God). A few rocks here and there are all that remain. Still standing is the Sts. Paul and Peter Church used by the municipality for storage. The frescoes and the inscription above what was once the altar are still visible.
Our next destination was Kharpert (Harput), once a thriving cultural and educational center. Here was located Yeprad (Euphrates) College, well-known for its educational excellence throughout Western Armenia. It has been totally demolished leaving behind a few scattered stones. Ironically, a photograph of Yeprad College with Armenian and old Turkish writing was displayed on a wall in our hotel lobby.
We visited the fortress and the ruined church of Surp Hagop (St. James) with its adjacent National Central School (Azkayin Getronagan Varjaran). The prominent educator and writer, Tulgadintsi (Hovhannes Haroutiunian) was the principal of this school for a quarter of a century. Its graduates entered many different professions, serving the needs of the people of Western Armenia. Near the ancient fortress are the ruins of the Surp Garabed Church.
Leaving Kharpert City, we drove to the villages of Morenig, Hussenig, Pazmashen, Khulakyugh and Veri Khokh (now renamed Chatalcheshme, Ulukent, Sarichubuk, Shahinkaya, and Dedeyolu respectively). In Morenig, only a few homes remain from the time of the Armenians, and they are inhabited by Kurds. Of all the villages we visited in the golden plain of Kharpert, the one with the least destruction was Hussenig. The Hussenigtsis in our group, Carl Mahakian, Dorothy Deranian Thompson and her son, Robert, were able to locate their family houses.
Most of the villages of Kharpert are now populated by Kurds and Balkan Turks.
In Khulavank, the monastery next to Khulakyugh , is the Church of Surp Kevork (St. George) which was built during the reign of King Abas (928-951). In the ruins of its hallowed walls, we offered requiem prayers and hymns, lit candles, and burned incense for the souls of our departed loved ones.
On our way to Erzurum, we stopped at Palu, a town of 12,000 people. This city with its neighboring villages is rich in Armenian history. It was here in a cave, according to tradition, that St. Mesrob Mashdots invented some of the letters of the Armenian alphabet.
We arrived in Erzurum, once a large Armenian city. Today it has a population of approximately 300,000 people, devoid of Armenians. In the compound of its ancient citadel was a fallen broken khatchkar. Nearby are the ruins of the Sanasarian College which existed from 1881-1912. It was the crown and glory of the Armenian schools of the interior, offering a quality of education equal to the Berberian and Getronagan schools of Istanbul. Only the exterior walls of the building have survived.
For a time, this city had been occupied by the Russians. When the Russian army left, the demoralized Eastern Armenian soldiers departed with them without heeding to the advice of General Antranig who wanted to defend the city with the arms that had been left behind, envisioning a Greater Armenia with Erzurum as its capital. Before leaving Erzurum, we visited the neighboring villages of Jinish (renamed Ortabahce) and Gez.
We drove along the Arax River on our way to Kars, once a capital of Armenia. Here we visited the Church of the Holy Apostles (Surp Arakelots), now a mosque, built by King Abas in the tenth century and the Kars Museum. This museum contains the original door of the Holy Apostles Church. Armenian writing is inscribed on the door. The same was found in the courtyard of the museum on tombstones and animal carvings.
No trip to Historic Armenia would be complete without a visit to Ani, the capital city of the Bagratids in the tenth and eleventh centuries. Ani had a population of over 100,000, and according to legend some 1000 churches. Only the ruins of a few remain today. The Dikran Honents Church of Surp Krikor contains beautiful frescoes depicting the life of St. Gregory the Illuminator. Other churches whose remnants still stand are the Surp Arakelots, Surp Prgich (Holy Savior), Surp Krikor of Gagik, Surp Krikor of Abughamrents, the Church of the Shepherd, the Monastery of the Virgins (Gusanats Vank) and the Cathedral of Surp Asdvadzadzin where we worshiped in the footprints of Armenian kings and catholicoi. The sanctity of the moment was overwhelming.
On our way to Van, we stopped at Pergri (Muradiye) and enjoyed its beautiful waterfalls before arriving at Varakavank, an important place in Armenian Church history. The Roman virgins, Gayane and Hripsime and their companions, fleeing persecution, came here in the third century for refuge bringing with them a fragment of the true cross of Christ. Each year, during the month of September, the Armenian Church celebrates the Feast of the Cross of Varak, commemorating this event. This monastery is also in ruins. Above two of the entrances are writings carved in Armenian, and pictures of saints are visible on some of its walls and pillars. This was the beloved monastery of Khrimian Hayrig who was its abbot in 1885.
Two centers in Van where Armenians once lived were the walled city district (near the fortress) and Aykesdan. After visiting both places, we drove to the main business section. There we were surprised to see a tall, large building with a huge sign which read, "Vartan Hotel." This hotel, owned by an American-Armenian entrepreneur and his wife, was forced to close by the local authorities. This action is now being legally contested by the proprietors. Yet, to see a building named "Vartan Hotel" in the heart of Van was in itself an experience.
It was a beautiful spring day when we visited the island of Aghtamar and the Cathedral of the Holy Cross (Surp Khach) built during the reign of King Gagik I by the architect, Manuel, between 915 and 921 A.D. It was the seat of one of the catholicates of the Armenian Church from 1113 to 1895. The exterior of the Cathedral contains carvings of events from the Old and New Testament and from Armenian history. As we entered, we saw a group of American and English tourists. Our group gathered to worship. During the service, tears could be seen in the eyes of some of these tourists. When we had finished, several of them approached us, asking questions and expressing their gratefulness for having witnessed what had just taken place. We left the Cathedral and walked around the island finding several khachkars, some with inscriptions.
Returning to the place of embarkation, we had dinner at a Kurdish restaurant across from Lake Van where we ate its famous daregh fish, and then drove along its southern shore with a brief visit to Tatvan and the village of Tsighak (renamed Sarikum).
Mush was our next destination. We visited the bridge and plain of Sulukh, where Kevork Chavush and other brave fedayeen lost their lives in battle, before proceeding to the Surp Garabed Vank of Mush. A jeep of armed soldiers escorted us there.
Upon our arrival, we were welcomed by the "mukhtar" (mayor). As the curious villagers gathered around us in front of the ruins of this famous monastery, we offered a requiem service for the souls of all of our martyrs. As we were about to begin, we were surprised to see men with television cameras taping the service.
We left Mush for Dikranagerd ( Diyarbakir). Upon our arrival, we visited the Surp Giragos Church, once a huge structure with seven altars, now only a skeleton of its past glory. It must have been a magnificent edifice during its prime. Here we met a man who is perhaps the only Armenian left in this city. Next to the church is a chapel which is still used a few times a year. We offered prayers and hymns and then retired to our hotel. The following day, we visited the ancient walls of the fortress before heading for Urfa.
Urfa, ancient Edessa, (renamed Sanliurfa) is a beautiful city. According to tradition, it was the capital city of King Abgar, a contemporary of Christ. This king wrote to Christ, asking Him to come to Edessa and heal him. Christ responded that He needed to complete His mission but would send a messenger. Following His ascension, the Apostle St. Thaddeus traveled to Edessa, preached the Gospel and healed the king. The large Surp Asdvadzadzin Church of Urfa is now a mosque.
West of Urfa is the large city of Antep (renamed Gaziantep). It, too, had a Surp Asdvadzadzin Church, and it also has been converted to a mosque. Several sites connected with Armenians still remain, and some still function. Among them are the American Hospital of Dr Fred Shepard fame and the American College for Boys.
Antep was the home base from which we visited the villages of Hasanbeyli, Eybes (Akbez), Kirikhan, Antioch (Antakya), and the village of Vakifli at Musa Ler (Musa Dagh). What a beautiful village! Inhabited by Armenian speaking Armenians, it has a relatively new church named Surp Asdvadzadzin. We visited with the young Armenian "mukhtar" and the friendly villagers who were happy to see us. The heroic people of Musa Ler fought valiantly against their oppressors as immortalized in Franz Werfel's book, The Forty Days of Musa Dagh. We, too, were paying homage to their memory.
One of the most exciting places we visited was Zeytun (renamed Suleymanli). Surrounded by lofty mountains, the brave people of Zeytun gained fame for their heroic battles against their Turkish oppressors. As we entered Zeytun, our group gathered along the side of one of its mountains and sang the Zeytun anthem which many of us had learned as children. "Long live valiant Zeytun. May it never see servitude as long as it has us as its brave sons." We walked through the village, taking in the waterfalls, the old bridge and washed our faces in the water of its spring. Soon Turkish soldiers appeared asking us the purpose of our visit. They had to call their superiors to obtain permission for us to take pictures. A half hour after our arrival, word came that permission had been given. After taking many pictures and visiting with the villagers, we headed for Marash which was the last place we visited before returning to Antep.
Marash (renamed Kahramanmarash) was also once a part of Cilician Armenia. During the years 1919-1922, numerous atrocities were committed against the Armenians by the Turks. Eye witness accounts of these horrible events are well documented in the book, The Lions of Marash, by Stanley E. Kerr.
We returned to Antep and boarded the plane for Istanbul. As we privately and collectively reflected upon all that we had experienced, the same questions entered into each of our minds. How could we have lost all that we had and why? What was gained and by whom? Did Turkey become a better, prosperous, and progressive country by ridding itself of its Armenian inhabitants and destroying their civilization? How will Turkey be able to reconcile its past with its present? The Turks will ultimately have to deal with this blot on their history. We await for Turkey's recognition of historical truth and for the restitution of its past deeds resting our faith and trust in God's justice.